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F&BJ - Welcome
Jailhouse Toque...
(Toque of Non- Commercial Foodservice)
by Nancy Berkoff, RD, EdD

Just got back from beautiful Baltimore, where we were assisting the Vegetarian Resource Group with their institutional plans. No, they weren't trying to get us into one (although this has been attempted on occasion by various parties, to no avail.) They are however working very closely with NACUFS (National Association of University and College Food Services) to formulate easy ways to incorporate vegetarian menus into higher education. Seems there's a large call for it. A LARGE call—walked around the NACUFS show in Anaheim in July and counted a least 20 companies marketing vegetarian/vegan convenience foods (frozen pastas, frozen stuffed potatoes, tofu things, salad dressings,etc) for the college crowd. My, how times have changed. When we went to college (let's dispel the myth that we bought the old sheepskin from a catalogue—that was the driver's license) Saturday night (and any time the football team won) was steak night. What is it now—carbo special for everybody?

THE NEXT TIME SOMEBODY COMPLAINS: We of the noncomm set are probably harangued more than most about our costs. The next time someone dares approach you on this subject, simply point out that the average cruiseline spends $12.92 per day per passenger (and this is up nine cents since last year), even with more casual dining choices aboard ship. Carnival Cruise Line spent the least ($9.65) and Renaissance Cruises spent the most ($25.00). Makes most of us here in the health care/ education/lo&I set look like heroes, no? For example, a two-person food contractor with Autodesk (in San Raphael, CA, one of the world's largest PC software companies) is able to feed the employees for about $1.75/day, and we ain't talking puppy chow. We're talking a 175 seat cafe, espresso bar and satellite kiosks, healthy menus, and (just to offset the healthy menus) a Friday night Beer Bust. Checks average about $4.95 to $5.25. $12.92, indeed. 

PLANES and TRAINS and AUTOMOBILES: Houston-based Master Chef Victor Gieliesse continues to work his magic with airline food (really!)- check out the new menus in first class (we pretended we were the health inspector) on United. Had an interesting talk with Amtrak's Executive Chef Gene Wilder (no, not that Gene Wilder) while waiting for a plane to Kansas City from L.A. the other day. Why, might you ask, was he flying? "To catch up with the train that's departing K.C. back to L.A.," said Wilder, " the chef scheduled to work that shift can't make it, so I'll fill in." We talked about cooking in a train galley (limited space, everything battened down, no open flame), product mix (some items are made from scratch right on the train, others are speed-scratch and some are produced in a commissary) and the joy of crossing time zones. "One minute you're preparing breakfast and the next minute you're making lunch, depending on the time zones and the scheduled stops. It makes it interesting," said Wilder.

Last Thursday's lunch at Terminal Island Federal Correctional Institute was lentil soup, with saltines, baked fishwich sandwich, steamed spinach and fruited jello, all lovingly prepared by guests of the state.

Speaking of trains, check out the Napa Valley Wine Trains. The trains, which are refurbished Pullmans, have a 36 mile, 3 hour run and offer a Deli Deluxe car and a Wine Tasting Lounge Car and has three dining cars, the Gourmet express, La Petite and the Vista Dome. All food is scratch-prepped under the supervision of Chef Patrick Finney, formerly of the Tucson National Golf Conference Resort and Spa; lunch and dinner are served during the week (about 300 for lunch and 250 for dinner) and brunch on weekends (about 160 are served). Prices range from $56.50 for a 3 course champagne brunch to $99 for a Murder Mystery Dinner. Plate cost is about 28 % (and the plates have to be smaller, ten inches as opposed to industry standard of 12-14, due to cramped quarters in the kitchens. Auto workers gotta eat too, and ARAMARK at New United Motors Inc., in Fremont California, is trying to put some sparks into the food services there. What a surprise that larger portion sizes were met with great enthusiasm at the plant (it takes a lot of energy to weld them chassis). Theme promotions (Mardi Gras, Guest Chefs, etc.) are well accepted as are (surprise!) fusion-cuisine menu items. Sushi with salsa, pasta with escargot, eel with Gorgonzola and guacamole with tuna tartar are just some of the delicacies being met with success (who woulda thunk it?)

AND THE BAND PLAYS ON.... for you music (or Muzak) piper-inners, be advised that the new Copyright Term Extension Bill passed by the House exempts most food service facilities from paying royalties for broadcasting music. Specifically, the bill exempts small establishments (under 3500 square feet) and larger establishments that use no more than two television and six speakers. Thank Representative James Sensenbrenner of Wisconsin- now let's see what it does in the Senate (anybody know anybody?)

THE SCHOOL SET: Large congrats to Michael DeReousse, of UCSB, for winning this year's Silver Plate award. As director of UCSB, DeRousse oversees 13 retail operations, 3 residential dining operation, 4 production bakeries, a full-service catering company and all campus concessions. In 1994, he was the first to install a Panda Express and a Wendy's franchise on a college campus and he is the founder of CURB (college and University Resources Board). CURB is a nonprofit corporation used to maximize collective purchases for campuses that potentially could change the way universities strengthen their buying power (see last issue's column for more on this). The man must be a saint- he has 1000 part-time students on staff.

More School News: LA Unified is piloting its own cafe concept, beginning in Glendale. Cafe L.A. has a logo and uniforms, costing about $150,000 for 5500 cafeteria staff. Menu items being tested for acceptance are wraps, teriyaki bowls and a la carte items. By the by, LAUSD already has its own brand of bottled water (we don't even want to consider the source).

The big kids at UC Irvine can park their keisters at the new Cyber Digital Arts Cafe located at the School of Arts, replete with web site and espresso and baked goods. The jocks at the new Student Recreation Center can stoke up on shakes, salads and energy drinks. (UCI— isn't their mascot the ant-eater?)

"WITH THE DISNEY TOUCH"— according to a press release from the University of California at Los Angeles Medical Center, the "magic has been brought back to foodservice" by Carlton Green, food service director of the 620 self-opt Green was a Disney manager for three years and is a graduate of Disney's management training program. He even got to visit with "Uncle Walt." What's that got to do with hospital food service? Green claims he learned to focus on the customer and to exceed their expectations at the happiest place on earth. To do this at the hospital, he has upgraded quality and cut costs (running at about $160 per 100 patient meal. Catering chefs work with patient meals to keep the interest up and there is even on-premise sushi preparation. The cafeteria features two brands (El Pollo Loco and Shakey's) along with UCLA menu offerings and the coffee is Starbucks. Almost makes you want to get sick. 

DOING THE RIGHT THING: Project Angel Food is an LA-based daily hot meal delivery service for people with HIV or AIDS. Ralph's Supermarkets Food For Less Foundation recently gave $100,000 to Angel Food and $40,000 of it will go to a new project. Participants will have the option to receive one delivery a week of seven frozen meals, rather than every day deliveries. Ralph's money will go for freezing equipment. Project Angel Food has been in operation since 1989 and serves about 950 people per day. 

KEEP OUT OF JAIL: Last Thursday's lunch at Terminal Island Federal Correctional Institute was lentil soup, with saltines, baked fIshwich sandwich, steamed spinach and fruited jello, all lovingly prepared by guests of the state. Be good or you too can dine on such tasty fare.

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