Change is the only constant. Heard this one before? The world of beverage, like its traditional companion food, is a constantly changing scene. Consider the wine scene and the subject of blending will enter into the discussion quickly. This is the art of mixing varietals to create a specific flavor profile. Wasn't too long ago that this was the exception not the norm. Now it is the norm not the exception. I can remember when the Aussies and the French were the only winemakers practicing this art form. Now everyone in the wine biz is doing it. Take the growth of Rhone style wines. When it gets to a wine list at $16.75 a glass, that's news! Yes, that's per glass for a taste of French Rhone from Chapoutier, Cote Rotie, on the wine list at the new hot trend setter, Azie Restaurant in S.F.

California winemakers are producing masterful blends as well. At the annual Harvest Celebration in San Luis Obispo I rediscovered excellent, world class California Rhone style wines, specifically from the Central Coast. This event, under the guidance of Archie McLaren, of KCBX Central Coast Wine Auction fame, could almost be called The California Rhone and Burgundy Harvest Celebration, is sponsored by The Edna Valley Arroyo Grande Valley Vintners Assoc. Sitting with event P.R. person Kathy Marcks Hardesty and winemakers, John Alban, our host at the table, Krimo Souilah, formerly of Clos du Val, and Brucher Winery winemaker. John is the winemaker of Alban Vineyards, who claims to be the first ( 1986 ) winery dedicated to Rhone varietals, produces a Grenache that is killer, especially for its surprising richness. None of us could identify, when tasting it blind.

I also discovered the rising star chefs of the Central Coast at this dinner, hosted by Chef Paul Kwong, of the Embassy Suites, whose father was a chef and mother was a Food and Beverage Director! His peers include John Ernst, Executive Chef for The Inn at Morro Bay; Felicien Cueff of Citronelle in Santa Barbara; Michael Albright of the newest restaurant in the area, Steamers in Pismo Beach. My personal favorite was Seared Foie Gras in a Farmer's Market, mini pumpkin with braised red cabbage, chanterelles, figs, huckleberries and candied walnuts! The sensory pleasures from the successful partnership of their superb food presentation and the well crafted wines could be aptly described a marriage made in heaven!

The winemaking team at Laetitia Vineyards and Winery is being billed to us wine scribes in these terms as well. Formerly the vineyard and home developed by French viticulturists of Deutz Champagne, the French connection is in the hands of consultants, Michelle Pignarrre Le Danois and Louis Mitjavile. Winemaker John Clark's team includes Kelly Clark, Jeff Frey, Andres Buenrostro, Dave Hickey, Jonathan Avila and Eric Hickey. This American melting pot team was assembled by Nebil "Bilo" Zarif, Turkish born and French educated, which qualifies them for membership in the United Natiuons!..This spectacular property, (our home while there ), grows some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in my experience. The tasting panel form the Wall St. Journal called their Pinot one of their favorites of the whole tasting!

This viticultural area is also known for Syrah, although the wine world of consumers is just catching up. The July issue of Wine Business Monthly show volume sales of Syrah/Shiraz in domestic grocery and drug stores up a whopping 55.2% versus a year ago! Better not forget the other favorite varietal of mine, Sangiovese, which this area excels in as well. The approach of Edna Valley Vineyard's winemaker, Jason Maglinte, is to treat the vines like Pinot Noir even tough the wine tastes like a Merlot/Cabernet style wine. One of the best Nebbiolo style wines also comes from the winemaker synonymous with the Central Coast, Jim Clendenon of Au Bon Climat and Qupe Wineries. He is really a gifted winemaker, adept with Chardonnays, Pinots, Italian style, Rhone style blends, whatever. This is also Bonny Doon country, as well as Meridian, Peachy Canyon, Baileyana, Corbet Canyon, Byron, Cambria, Firestone, Gainey, Sanford, Whitcraft, Zaca Mesa. It almost makes me want to stay for the rest of the year!

FYI #1: The American Vintners Assoc., of Washington D.C., notes that the number of U.S. Wineries grew 29 percent, to 2,081, from 1995 to 1999. Among the states with the strongest growth in wineries were Washington, to 125 from 93; Colorado, to 26 from 10; and Virginia, to 54 from 44.

FYI #2: See you at the Rhone Rangers, The Pinot Noir Weekend, The Passport week end, The Annual Calaveras Grape Stomp and whatever else comes up in the world of wine.