Toque of San Francisco

The Buzz About Foodies

Jody Denton's of Azie - The Nine Bites Sampler of appetizers shown will be profiled in the September issue of Food & Beverage International

One of the best marketing studies about restaurants and their clientele has just been released. We have all heard about foodies. Everybody has an opinion or a story about foodiedom. Now you can get the facts, according to the San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau (SFCVB). Their recently released marketing survey, "The 1999 American Food & Travel Survey", by David Bratton of the SFCVB, is a detailed, factual analysis about foodies and restaurants, not only the SF Bay area, but also nationally. If you're interested in trends, there is plenty of info to study.

Dieting, the topic of conversation for many people, seems to have influenced responses in the category of "trends people would like to see". For instance, 2 of the top 3 most desired trends were "more light but flavorful foods" (55.7%) and "more low calorie foods" (52.8%). Add to this mix, "more meat entrees" (41.1%), and you see a pattern. I guess there are lots of folks like my International Foodie friend, Seika Stanley, who is trying the high protein diet. The good news is that desserts are still very popular. Wine, spirits and beer, not exactly diet friendly, have also not declined in sales. So maybe we just talk about diets to justify our perceived need to look good and go to restaurants to indulge our real need to feel good? This would help explain the diversity of successful restaurants.

The new reincarnation of the dining room at the Canterbury Hotel is the perfect example of the high protein menu. Chef Michael Baker balances the art of culinary sophistication while featuring Certified Angus Beef, Dry Aged 21 days in house. The appetizer menu reflects his Hawaiian culinary heritage with Shrimp and Scallop Potstickers w/green papaya salad, sweet chili vinaigrette, being spicey hot. The Baby Spinach Salad w/honey sesame dressing, warm grilled shrimp yakitori appeared in an exotic tent-like form. This artistic flair compliments the Paul Bunyon sized portions such as the Grilled Petite Filet Mignon and Lobster-Sea Scallop Medallion w/Lobster demi, ginger sweet potato mash, grilled asparagus w/ a lovely spiral sprig of honey glaze atop the plate. (Note: 42% wanted larger portions served in the list of the "trends patrons would like", SFCVB Survey)

Chef Baker's piece de resistance is his truly memorable White Chocolate Kona Coffee Bread Pudding, not at all like the traditional old fashioned thing of goop, this custard-like brioche style is light and flavorful, worth a pilgrimage for chocoholics. Leave your diet at home or you'll miss a thing of beauty. Mr. Baker, we salute your masterful style.

A real paragon of protein, a take no prisoners, this ain't for wimps, steak tartare totin' menu is featured at Paragon, the newest Pac Bell Park neighborhood restaurant. This American Brasserie actually has a French-American styled menu honed by Chef Brian Lewis and his A team, Amy Tauber and Jim Locascio. His East Coast, CIA, Johnson and Wales roots are well represented by the Salt Cod and Clam Chowder, Escargot, Tuna Carpaccio, Lobster and Crisp Striped Bass presentations.

The Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons, Restaurant Lutece experience shows up in Housemade Pork and Fennel Sausage baked in pastry, Duck Confit and Spinach Salad. Their wine list features California wines with a diverse wine by the glass selection. This is a serious brasserie with 20 ft. ceilings and huge cherry wood back bar, reminiscent of old S F, when pub crawling was a real sport. Owners Tim Harmon and Jon Swanson are pros, and it shows.

If you want to lower your blood pressure and raise the sensations on your palate, Jody Denton's Azie features Asian inspired French, which translates to a Japanese style presentation and many portions. The Nine Bites Sampler of appetizers is worth the trip alone. It's located on Folsom Street, (an almost easy walk from Moscone center), and its right next door to his other restaurant, Lulu's, a French country style restaurant that has long been a landmark of San Francisco.

The classic S F restaurant and bar revival scene is the feature at P.J. Mulhearn's in North Beach. It reminds me of my Union St. days as the owner of The Mother Lode Restaurant. As a matter of fact, I recognized people at P.J.'s from back then. Owner Bob Mulhearn goes way back in the biz, including Moose's, and is a bit of a classic himself, as are his partners P.J. Carlesimo and Bill Burke. Chef Matthew McLinn has the drill perfected in concert with the scene at P.J.'s with classics like Filet Mignon Tartar Crostini; Molasses Glazed Rack of Lamb; Roast Orange Pressed Chicken; Medallion of Atlantic Salmon; New York Strip Steak and Crème Brulee. The protein diet devotees will love this place. The booths are so big and comfortable you could lie down and take a nap…mmm, maybe this is comfort food and comfort ambiance to match?

This classic revival scene, Chinese style, couldn't be better represented than Shanghai 1930. True to this era, when Shanghai was known as the "Paris of the Orient", the menu recreates the melding of different International Cuisines, including the distant provinces of Sichuan, Hunan, Beijing and Canton. The first fusion food? The style of service is from this era when floor captains, tableside cart preparations and a "Floor Manager" prevailed over all the action. George Leung is "The Man" on the floor, guarding the traditions of elegance for Owner George Chen, who has also been the creative force behind Betelnut (S F ); Xanadu (Berkeley); LongLife Noodle Co. (various locations); Qi ( S F International Airport International Terminal); and Dragon Fly (Corte Madera). Chef Jason Xu and team mate chef Tony Gu preside over the formidable and extensive menu. Their Peking Duck is the best I've had. Thank you George, not only for the beautiful ambiance replete with antiquities, and the beautiful art deco style lounge with live jazz, but also the private cigar lounge.

For a classic ambiance that oozes of romantic charm, my vote goes to Absinthe, on Hayes in S F. Sitting on lush blood red leather and mohair banquettes, surrounded by a mural of a dining room scene in a whimsical ...

by Tom Luther

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