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Born in Palermo, Antonio Fecarotta's passion for the traditional simple fair of Sicily makes him the perfect choice to implement Mr. Coppola's vision of a
restaurant he can eat in with his friends and
experience the tastes of his childhood. The sauces are made from his
mothers recipes and the pasta served is rustic, exactly the way his mother
made it. "This pasta was made in machines that have
been used for 80 years", said Coppola, "with original molds, that don't
have teflon on them. The new molds that make pasta have teflon, so the
pasta kind of comes out perfectly smooth. But with our non teflon molds,
it comes out with a texture. So consequently, I think it kind of soaks up
the sauce better. And the shapes, you can just look at it and know you've
never quite seen pasta like that because this is a very, very old
fashioned method." |
And he is right about the texture. If you watch the pasta boil carefully and take it out at just the right moment, - what the Italians call al dente . the pasta has just the right amount
of resistance when you bite into it, giving you a smooth textured feel to
the tongue, offering enough thickness to give you the full flavor and
almost meaty texture.
"This is not a sparse kind of pasta," says Coppola. " You've got to
cook it for the full 18 minutes. Don't take it out until it passes the
taste where you bite into it and it's not too hard, but it's not too soft
either. And you take it out jut a second before it's ready because you
know it's going to keep cooking."
The pizza is a Neapolitan pizza, not made with a rolling pin, but
pressed by hand and gently flipped back and forth the old fashioned way so
that you don't squeeze the edges. Although simplicity is the key here,
authenticity has to be the headline. Chef Alfredo has been brought into
the operation to make sure that the Neapolitan Pizza will be certified by
the Neapolitan Pizza Society, a process which requires many rigorous
steps. Although the pizzas are made to exact specifications, a few more
details are needed, such as a particular Italian marble for the dough to
be rolled on, and an Italian wood burning oven for the pizza to be baked
in. While the classically French café design enhances the Italian rustic
country fare experience, the certification will have to wait until the new
Palo Alto location is open. The 50 seat bistro, including the al fresco
dining, does not have room to house the needed wood burning stove.
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In the meantime, Master Neapolitan Chef Alfredo will make only the most
authentic Neapolitan Pizza for diners. Keeping the size at the traditional
nine inches, the crust is adorned with the barest of exceptionally high
quality Italian ingredients . simple Italian cheeses, proscuittos, a
couple of teaspoons of tomato sauce (Sicilian style) and some fresh basil.
The crust is made to exact specifications, requiring the right water,
yeast and flour.
The Sophia Pizza (named after daughter Sophia Coppola), consists of
heaps of baby arugala, tossed in a light olive oil and seasoned only with
salt and pepper. Placed loosely on top of thinly sliced proscuitto with
Italian cheeses, the resulting dish is very simple, but dead on terrific.
This isn't fast food. The pasta, served with a robust, Sicilian tasting
red sauce, is not pre cooked, so it takes about 20 minutes to be served.
Relax and enjoy a bottle of Coppola wine with your meal, sold at the same
price as if you were in the tasting room at the Niebaum-Coppola Winery.
The tables on the sidewalk sit on heated terrazzo, and, diners are
protected by an imported retractable heated Parisian awning, insuring year
round, outdoor eating. Come back often, for the cafe has events going on
all the time, from plays and poetry readings to cookbook openings.
As with every good restaurant, the star is the food.. Buon Appetit!
Café Niebaum Coppola
916 Kearny street corner of Columbus and Kearney
415 291 1700 |